Recipe: Coffee Cake by James Hoffmann
I. The Sponge: Espresso vs. Instant
The speaker first tested various forms of coffee in the cake sponge:
| Coffee Type | Result | Rationale |
|---|---|---|
| Cheap Instant Coffee (Nescafe) | Tastes okay initially, but has a recognisable "Nescafe kick" on the back end. The flavor is not very strong. | The fat and sugar in the batter mask much of the coffee flavour. |
| Specialty Instant Coffee | Better than cheap instant, but still lacking sufficient coffee flavour | Specialty instant often requires a higher dose than commercial instant to achieve the same strength |
| Well-Brewed Espresso | The best result. Tastes "warm and comforting and friendly". The use of fresh, well-extracted espresso produces a delicious, clear coffee flavour. | Though the additional liquid and acidity from the espresso risked ruining the cake's structure, the resulting cake was far superior. |
Sponge Recipe Tweaks (Espresso Method)
- Structure: The recipe uses a meringue (whipped egg whites and sugar) folded into the batter to achieve a lighter, fluffier sponge texture.
- Coffee: Use about 110g of 10% strength espresso to maximise flavour.
- Additive (Optional): The speaker incorporated Glycerol Monostearate (GMS), an emulsifier used by commercial bakers, to potentially improve the texture of the finished cake.
II. The Buttercream: Coffee Butter Infusion
For the frosting, the goal was the best coffee flavour possible, not the most coffee flavour, to avoid dominating the excellent sponge.
- Buttercream Type: The speaker used a Swiss Meringue Buttercream (based on Stella Parks' recipe) because he finds traditional American buttercream too sweet.
- Coffee Infusion: Coffee flavour was added via Coffee Butter, infusing the butter with whole beans.
- Method: Infuse 100g of whole coffee beans with 200g of unsalted butter at 90°C for one hour (using a sous vide circulator or a stovetop pot, being careful not to brown the butter).
- Whole Beans: Whole beans were used instead of ground to ensure all specks of coffee could be removed for a smooth, particle-free texture in the frosting.
- Why Butter? This method extracts different flavour compounds that are fat-soluble rather than water-soluble, adding nuance to the final taste.
III. Final Verdict
The finished, two-tier cake was declared the best coffee cake the speaker had ever had.
- Flavour Balance: The coffee flavour was clean and sweet, demonstrating that good coffee was used.
- Complexity: The contrast between the oil-infused flavour in the buttercream and the water-extracted espresso flavour in the sponge created a very complete spectrum of flavour.
- Recommendation: The speaker recommends using a coffee that is "clean, sweet, and delicious".